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Kosciuszko National Park


IMG_8259It is possible to get to Wagga Wagga from Tumbarumba while also passing through Book Book and along the way you also will fly through a two horse and one shop town called Fortune.

I did exactly that – based on the names alone – only to find it is a trip best done in reverse because Fortune surely comes to those who leave Wagga Wagga not to those who stay there. In a region of astonishing natural beauty and wonderful open plains, Wagga Wagga is like a giant ‘fuck you‘ to the natural world.

I have heard it said that the best view of Adelaide is in the rear view mirror. Leaving Wagga Wagga was a kind of religious experience.  It was almost as good as entering Tumbarumba. Tumbarumba was genuinely a lovely town in a great setting but nothing quite prepared me for what lies beyond the three-part town of Tumut.

Tumut was so good they built a trilogy of them. Once you leave Tumut it’s a short trip along a nice tree-lined street to the rest of Tumut.

Beyond that bit of Tumut, you appear to leave the town a second time and, just to prove they can do it to you again, there’s a bit more of Tumut left to navigate.

Eventually they ran out of Tumuts or money or both and the Tumuts end and very soon Kosciuszko National Park begins.

This is arguably the best place in the entire universe to unwind in the early Summer months when there’s no snow and nobody in any major hurry to go anywhere.


The Snowy Mountain Highway and other roads in this regions are not major arterial roads which connect industrial towns or which connect farms to city markets. The roads in this part of the world are instead a network for supply of small towns and for traffic like me, drifters who want to follow all the natural beauty through NSW and into Victoria.

The slow pace of life in these super-sized hills and somewhat diminutive mountains is so slow the pace of life seems to get overtaken by continental drift.

The Snowy Mountains at this time of year is just plain kickarse, one of the best places on the planet to find yourself. And sure the National Park which offers some of the best views of Australia is also one of the hardest to spell, but it’s worth going there if only to learn how to really nail down that spelling.

Kosciuszko is not only a park it is a spelling bee winner. It seems almost like an attempt to deliberately put the letter z in the wrongest place possible. It is a dyslexic’s nightmare.

IMG_8304The entire park is a mountain range stuck next to a stunning lake while being surrounded by roos. There are more places to camp here for free than there are Tumuts. It is a place well worth sticking on a bucket list. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is beautiful all year round but only really busy in the snow season. So if, like me, you’re an off-season traveller, this park is so good you could almost eat it.


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